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1. Floor Preparation
Wet Areas & Subfloors: Regulations will vary between Councils. Check with your local council in relation to waterproofing specifications in wet areas. Some councils deem cork flooring with 4 coats of polyurethane as sufficient water proofing.
Tongue & Groove: The laying of cork tiles over tongue and groove is not recommended. Timber moves due to atmospheric conditions and moisture in the air which would mean that the cork would be sitting on an unstable base.
Because the edges of the tongue & groove tend to stand out, eventually the polyurethane dulls on the high spots creating a lined effect.
Therefore an overlay is recommended. 4.5mm (3/16th”) MD fiberboard. Hardboard or bison board can also be used. Sheets should be staggered so 4 corners do not meet with 1mm gaps left around the sheets and 3mm around the walls to allow for expansion and lessen the chance of squeaking.
Air stapling is the most successful method of fixing the sheets but panel pins will suffice as long as they are well driven in. The stapling/nailing must be at 100mm (4”) centers right across the sheet and at 50mm (2”) centers around the edges. Do not use flathead nails as they can work up and show as lumps on the polyurethane surface.
Particle Board / Chip Board: Sand the particle board with a 180 grit paper, preferably overall, ensuring that all nails have been punched.
Pay extreme attention to the joins and ensure that they have been filled and sanded down flat. Sand at a steady pace to avoid tramlines or grooves.
A rule of thumb: A concrete slab should have been laid for 1 month per inch of concrete thickness before laying flooring. If in doubt always use a moisture meter to check the moisture content of the substrate. (5.5% for concrete and 15% for wood)
Water barriers and damp course membranes should have been used in construction to prevent water absorption from below.
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